Brother CS 6000i 37 Satin Stitch Applique
Is there any need of sewing pattern printers. If I want to do satin stitch around my heart, along a raw edge, we’re going to start with stitch number four. Instead of foot J switch over to foot letter N, that has a nice cutout underneath, here I’ll show you. It allows for satin stitches to really form out the backside. Some of your decorative stitches that are really heavy are going to call for this foot, but the machine doesn’t know that you’re going to manipulate this particular zig-zag stitch to be so close together. It’s just going to ask for the regular foot J instead. Take the settings as they start. What we’re going to do is we’re going to reduce the stitch length. While I’m sewing I’m going to come up here and minus it. It’s going to start at 1.4, and I’m going to just keep touching it. We’re going to go below one,.9,.8. What I’m watching for is that the stitches get so close together that they begin to be as at in stitch. Now I want them to be close enough that they don’t pile up.
I’m really seeing where that break point is. It’s always based on how thick your thread is. Depending on if you have much thinner thread you’ll be a little bit less, but as long as you’re going forward I think this is where. Oh, it’s trying, that’s.2. We’ll take a look and see which setting we actually like the best here, and then we can move over to our heart. You can actually get this. See how. So many people stop like right about here and they’re like, “Oh that’s fine. ” ” Come on down here and really get a nice closed up zig-zag.
Now you could set and change the width if you want, and make the width actually change and get it all right where you want it to be. If we can adjust the width, we can just go ahead and make it wider. We go all the way up to seven, and of course if we go down. Here I’ll just run it down. We get a nice taper down to a straight stitch. All right, so you can find what setting is going to look best. When we come over here we want the majority of the satin stitch to be on the fabric, we just a little jump of the needle coming off of the edge of the fabric. Let’s set it for 3.5 for the stitch width. Yes, that’s going to look good. Yup, and then I’ve got a.3. Now I’ve changed from just two layers of fabric to now fabric and batting. That could make a little difference since I did not test on the actual layers that the final stitching will be on. Always try to plan on a little test area, but I will show you what this is going to look like.
It will really look pretty here. A little practice will get you the perfects at in stitch around any shape you want to appliqué. Now here’s a quick question for you. Since we used this appliqué shape in the blanket stitch video, of these two edges, the satin stitch one is going to look the best the longest because there’s no raw edge. That raw edge is completely covered. Technically this raw edge, it could come up after a few washings and start to look a little rayed out here. Keep in mind how this item’s going to be used if you’re going to just do a raw edge fuse down or/and how the stitching is going to be placed.
Foot R is a blind hem. When we choose stitch number 09, it will tell us to put this particular foot on. It has a blade that we can slip the thread down and through but really the blade is there to help guide us for our blind hem. First thing, it’s about the folding. Fold it up based on your final hem that you wanton your pants, on your skirt. What you do is you fold the fabric back so this is kind of a makeshift fold. We want this stitch it’s going to bite just a little tiny bit into this fold. That little guide on the foot is what we’re going to put the fold up against. As you sink the needle down, this would be a place where I’d take a little test and I can turn the hand wheel down. I see I’m actually going to get a pretty deep bite. If I need to I can adjust the width right up here where we can actually, here we go, adjust the width. It just says one or two.
You’ll notice it doesn’t actually have a setting. It just starts at zero. As you move in to one, the needle moves just a hair to the right. That’s exactly what I needed. Maybe, I might go up to two here. Because the machine doesn’t know what thickness of fabric I am using, you will need to kind of fine tune it before you stitch. Then, as it stitches, it’s going to stitch on the right hand side of the fabric. Then it’s going to stitch jump over into the fold. It does about four or five stitches and it’s just jumping over that edge there. I can even hear it as it goes in. The idea is to have this perfect. Here, let’s look before we open it up. That’s what it’s going to look like on the inside. On this side, what we’re looking for is that it catches just a little bit. If your little bites here are consistent in size, you did it right. If they’re even bigger but they are consistent, you also did it right. You just need enough to catch and hold that all the way down the fabric.
Boy, that really looks good. Of course, if we had cream fabric in here, you would not even see the stitche seven if they were a little on the big side. I bet you’re surprise yourself and it sure beats doing it by hand.